Here's some photo's of the 1993 190E inherited from my father -

*58000 original kilometres (36,000 miles)

* Purchased new by my father Sept 1993

* AMG Option package fitted

* Complete history (Original purchase receipt/services etc).

Hi all,

Looking through other threads, I found the pointers on power bleeding to be spread about, and thought one specifically for power bleeding would be helpful. The car is a 93 190E 2.3 with ABS

I got the Motive Products power bleeder, and am trying to develop a foolproof plan of attack. Any advice is highly appreciated.

Some of the steps other posters have listed include:

1. Syphon out old fluid (turkey baster works)
2. Fill reservoir
3. Pressurize bleeder to about 20lbs.
4. Open bleed screws from farthest wheel (rear passenger) to nearest (front driver)
5. Close bleed screws when new fluid comes through without bubbles

Points:
PRESSURE ONLY: It seems this method just uses the power bleeder for it's pressure, and not its tank. Rather, the master cyl. is filled directly. This is supposed to make cleaning the power bleeder easier I gather, because the fluid hasn't cycled through it. Any other advantages/disadvantages to this method?

TWO RESERVOIRS: Also, there are two reservoirs within the brake fluid reservoir. It's important to keep them both filled to prevent air from entering the system.

Is it ok for the fluid reservoir to be emptied as long as the bleed screws haven't been open?

CAR LEVEL: I'm also wondering about keeping the car level. Is this an issue with the power bleeder? Is it ok to raise the rear, do them, lower it, and raise the front? What about raising 1 corner at a time?

OLD FLUID: Should I still hook up a tube to the bleed screw to drain the old fluid into a container?

I have 2 quarts of MB fluid on hand.

Sorry for all the virginal questions. I would sure appreciate any insights from someone who has done this.

Thanks,
C

Received this differential with a whole bunch of other parts I bought. The guy didnt know what car it came off of as it was a part that was brought to him for a project car. Here are some pics of the Differential. The back housing has 2 large holes for the subframe bolts compared to the 4 bolts on the 201. The gear ratio is 3.27.

Anybody know where or have links to get one? I tried searching but the only one i can find is the one with the horizontal indentation in the middlewhich is for a GTI i think. I'm looking for the standard plain one that other forum members recently put on.

does anyone know anything about the ta-technix lowering springs??

Hi, Ya'll . Got a question here. How hard and expensive would it be to get somebody to bore out a set of wheels that would fit in every way except the center bore is 57.1 instead of the 66.5 on mercedes wheels. I'm looking at these here RACING DYNAMICS RGS Wheels 17x8 ET30 5x112 Audi/VW | eBay I love the look of these and I think the 30 mm offset and 8 inch width would work even on my soon to be lowered 16v. Thoughts...?

Like the title states, my new-to-me car seems low. My local euro shop has confirmed that the previous owner had them replace the springs, but they can't recall if they were oem or not, or if they were cut.

I would like to know if there is a standard number of coils for the oem springs and if there is a set distance between them under load. Also if there is any telltale signs to look for if they are indeed oem or not.

Thank you!

This is the best picture I could find. The tires on that picture are 205/60r15, I have since put a set of 185/65r15 and even though they are smaller, the car still looks too ''stanced'' for stock.

this is really annoying, as i had gone to fix one city light connectionand go to turn them on and both are on at once

the switch on the dash seems like its giving mixed signals, because the one parking light the right works but if i select the singke parking brake to the left, the headlights and city lights come on again ? ?

anyone in vancouver want to join in on some weekly euro meets around the lowermainland? message me

I am tracing some serious electrical issues that I can't resolve.

86 190D. The passenger turn signal glows constantly. As does the pass turn signal indicator in the cluster. Wiper runs constantly in setting "2" (low speed constant). All lower left side dash lights illuminated constantly, even when key removed. Right turn signal indicator illuminates even when key removed. Tach doesn't work.

Installed new fuses and new hazard switch. I have changed the ovp and the klima for known good units. Replaced the combination switch. Replaced the front turn signal bulb holders. Replaced the rear light units.

Wiper will stop if I pull fuse 20.

Headlight switch? Hazard switch wiring? Ignition switch?

Any ideas?

Hello everyone! I'm pretty new to the forums, was a lurker and been meaning to post this thread over the last 6 weeks but I've only been able to work on the car on weekends and between school and practice with my band, etc. I just haven't done so until now.

Long story short, I purchased a '92 3.0l engine from a dismantling shop for my '93 190e 2.6 car. I had reached 330k on the odometer and for the last 10k miles or so I had been leaking oil into the overflow tank and all over the place. Not to mention the radiator had a leak somewhere and my father overheated the car some hundred thousand miles ago and had the cylinder head redone and by this time it was seeing its age. Bad compression, sluggish power; I felt it was time to take the opportunity to make the upgrade... and seeing as we were the original owner and it has been my first car, I wanted to keep the car and eventually restore it.

Anyway, continuing on... the engine has successfully been swapped into the car and running strong and keeping cool. :bdance: The difference in torque isn't monumental but it is damn great and it surprised the hell out of me jumping from 0-50ish when on the last stretch of road coming home today. :bgrin:

But alas, I have a few problems... first I've come to the conclusion that I need a new smog/air pump. During our cleaning of the engine bay and parts, it seemed that too much degreaser was not rinsed out properly and has deteriorated the hose to the check valves and possibly bearing/gears in the pump because it now it makes a high pitch rattle / bell like ringing when running. I'm guessing this isn't that big of a deal since I can nab another from the junk yard and I don't think it makes a deal on the performance of the running engine...

Second, it has been difficult to start the car. When we first started the engine there was a loud clanking noise that sounded like to me that it was too low on oil. Later we figured out that we did not torque down the bolts underneath the car on the flex plate down enough and they were indeed quite loose... :irked: However before we figured this out, we assumed it was low on oil because of the sound, and the fact that the dipstick still read below the max line... Now I had assumed 6 quarts was enough, but since the oil had been completely drained out of this engine we added another and still had noise issues when starting the car. Being in a rush to get my damn car home! and before we figured out the flex plate was loose, we decided that we should add MORE oil (another 2 damn quarts making 9, WTF? dumb right?). At this point the noise issue was still there and we finally thought to check the flex plate bolts... The car then started up without that clanking noise! However it was still a bit difficult to start and I had to crank it a few times to get her going, which after that she ran and sounded beautiful; which leaves me where I'm at now.

I drove the car around the block a few times and everything was running smooth and cool. Then drove the car home about 60 miles home and was pretty satisfied. Pushed her to about 85 mph / 3400ish rpm on the highway and pushed hard from 0-50mph on the last stretch of road, letting go of the accelerator around 4000 rpm...

Pulled into the street outside the house, popped open the hood and noticed oil had splashed everywhere on the fan shroud, on the pulleys underneath the power steering pump and above the A/C. There was oil all underneath the oil pan and A/C and a bit on the left side of the engine in front of the headers... I did NOT see any leaks from the actual valve cover or gasket but it was in the dark and all I had was a flashlight. :ticked:

TL;DR (Too long didn't read!)

I believe I've added too much oil (9 quarts :shake: )and it caused pressure to build up and leak out a loose area that probably wasn't torqued down to spec. Tomorrow morning I plan on checking most every bolt, screw, and hose clamp or vacuum line for this leak, or any other, as well as draining a quart or so of oil out the bottom of the oil pan...

My questions are as follows...

-Did I do any damage to the engine or seals by adding too much oil? (We had assumed maybe the 3.0 engine needed more than the 6 quarts of the 2.6 and thought maybe there was a leak or the 'new' engine was bone dry, due to the clanking noise during start up)
-If no damage, any idea where it could be leaking oil from the front?

-Also, when starting the car, idle jumps up to about 2500 rpm or so and bounces up and down 3-4 times until it finally settles down at around 600 rpm idle. Is this a computer issue or mechanical fuel injection one? Did air get into my fuel system and will this issue go away? Do I need to adjust timing or tuning somewhere?

-Anything major you guys could ask me to see if I've missed something in the conversion process of the 3.0 engine? I will post pictures and answer everything I can asap.

As far as I knew, every electrical and vacuum line seemed to line up between the two engines and I'm assuming the engine is mostly plug and play... I did not switch flex plates on the new engine with the old tranny (didn't think it mattered?)... I had to use my old A/C and old A/C fuel cooling line assembly (which did leak the very first time I started the car but we've tightened that since).

Also at the top of my head, I've replaced the oil pan gasket, valve cover casket, radiator with a new one, all hoses, coolant reservoir, air filter, belt tensioner and belt, clutch fan, distributor cap and rotor, thermostat in the water housing, various clips... etc... oh and driveshaft bolts :dance1:


I can't wait to get this thing finished holy crap! :angel:

I have been parking my '93 190E 2.6 outdoors lately and noticed that I seem to be losing fuel. It occurred to me that someone might be siphoning gas from the car and, sure enough, my fuel door is not locking. Any thoughts on what may be happening? Does the pin that moves in and out have its own actuator? The rest of my locking system works fine (doors, trunk). How do I get to the fuel door locking mechanism?

I am looking to remove my SLS in the simplest way, ie, only dis-fuction it, but not looking to remove every bit to save weight. I like to confirm the procedure and part # :

Procedure
1. Unscrew banjo bolt of the hydraulic hose to the SLS pump.
2. Remove 3 bolts holding the base plate of the pump.
3. Unscrew 4 screws holding the SLS pump
4. Re-install base plate
5. Install the block off plate with the gasket using new screws. Torqued at 10ft.lb

Do I need to ensure the fluid is sufficient so that the ride height will hold ? Or is it the other way around, drain every drop out ?

Parts needed :
Block off plate - 1160150209 ( or DIY )
Gasket - 1170150080 or 1142360080 ( like to know if either one is ok )

Hello. I have used the search feature and read every thread that had acceleration in the title. I can't seem to find anything that is similar to my problem.

Just bought this 1990 190E 2.6 automatic. My first European car.The guy that sold it it me drove it while I rode along for the test drive. He was shifting from 2nd, to third, to drive, and everything appeared to be fine. The acceleration from a dead stop through the rpm's was good and when he popped it into third, followed by drive, it was the same. The shifts were all smooth as well.The car looks very well on the inside and out, so I bought it.

I left, shifting it the same way he did no problems. Stopped at a store and got something to drink. This is where the problem starts.

I put it in drive and pulled onto the road and started to accelerate. It started moving very slowly, so I have it more gas. Still had the same acceleration. So I floor it, and it is still the same acceleration. After about 10 seconds, I get up to 40 mph. Thinking that was weird, I pull into a big empty parking lot. I stop, put it in second, and it accelerates just fine. Stop, back to drive, same slow acceleration.

What causes this? There is no fuel smell, While slow starting in Drive, the acceleration is very smooth, as is the shifting, when I finally get enough RPM's for it to switch gears. When it does shift, the acceleration stays the same. This is all regardless of how far I push the gas pedal. No stutter, no hesitation, no gas smell from flooding, just smooth, slow, forward motion. Also, tranny fluid looks all right and is right where is should be on the dipstick.

Again, if I start in second, and move up the tree, it's fine. Reverse is fine as well. Just starting in drive creates the problem.

I hope I have explained this well enough and look forward to hearing your thoughts and opinions on what may be the issue.

So i took a couple bottles back, did some chores around the house, got my tax return.. and well was able to insure my ghetto car for a weekend. Although my mom wanted me to pitch in with my over due visa fee's i rolled hard on friday night.

Enjoy my 190e homies.


190e benz granville island by andyzbisko, on Flickr


Benz granville island dock by andyzbisko, on Flickr


Benz at granville island shiieet by andyzbisko, on Flickr


underground benz by andyzbisko, on Flickr

After having the body cladding for almost a year now it is finally time to install the rest of kit and paint this thing!

I've started off fitting the rear bump to my parts car, a 93 model. I see the two points where i have to drill new holes. My question is about the three holes that are already up top, they just don't quite line up. Who here has pictures of their mods? or is there a different way of installing or is my bumper just warped?

here is how far off mine is.


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